The ferry boat that transports us between Tahiti is riding the rough Pacific waves and I am standing on the deck and the jagged peaks of Moorea are coming out of morning haze. A half-an-hour of salt spray and foreboding and the next minute you are driving into a whole new world.
There is also the Aremiti Ferry that travels several times a day between Papeete and Moorea – approximately 2,800 XPF ($25) per way. I secured a seat in the upper deck, owing to the fact, that, frankly speaking, I could not help being the first to witness the opening of the Cook’s Bay, like some antique amphitheater.
What immediately impresses you is not merely the beauty – it is the verticality of everything. They are not hills, they are old volcanic spires growing out of turquoise lagoons. This huge green pyramid that appears to move and transform with each position you find yourself in is the center of Mount Rotui.
The ferry docks at Vaiare, and within minutes you realize Moorea operates on island time. Cars move slower here. People actually wave at strangers. The whole pace just… downshifts.
Getting Around: Scooters, Cars and Island Roads
I rented a car through Avis Moorea – essential if you want to explore beyond the resort areas. The main road circles the island in about an hour, but you’ll want days to actually see everything.
The road hugs the coastline, weaving between coconut groves and local homes. Speed limit? What speed limit. You drive based on how many chickens are crossing the road and whether that view of the lagoon just made you slam the brakes for photos.
Some spots require more adventurous transport. I ended up on an ATV for one of the mountain trails – not exactly my comfort zone, but sometimes the best views demand getting a little dusty.
Hiking Adventures: Into the Green Heart
Belvedere Lookout – The Classic View
Every Moorea guidebook mentions Belvedere Lookout, and yeah, it’s touristy. But there’s a reason everyone goes there.
The drive up takes you through pineapple plantations and increasingly wild terrain. When you finally reach the viewpoint, you’re looking down into both Cook’s Bay and Opunohu Bay simultaneously – these massive blue fingers reaching into the island’s volcanic heart.
But here’s what the tour groups miss: keep walking. There are trails beyond the main viewpoint that lead deeper into the valley. Less manicured, more raw. You’ll pass old marae (ancient stone temples) and stumble onto views that feel completely private.
Three Coconut Hike – Getting Lost in Paradise
The Three Coconut Trail made me question all I had ever known about simple tropical walks. It is not a stroll on a tamed path, but a plunge into the jungle.
The beginning is in thick fern forests with the canopy shading off most of the sunlight. Everything drips. Your feet are squelching in mud that is likely years old mud. There are giant ferns that are towering above you and you half suspect to find dinosaurs at every turn.
The path takes a winding route up the valleys which seem to be untouched at all. Not one sign, not a railing, but you and what judgment you have brought with you. I lost my path twice and found out that the most pleasant thing in hiking is the unforeseen twists and turns.
The reward? Scenes all over the island which never came on a postcard. Raw, sweaty, earned views.
Magic Mountain – Worth the Adventure
Magic Mountain got its name. The climb up is so intense that you are inclined to challenge your fitness level, yet the panoramic views of 360 degrees on the top justify all the huffing. On a clear day, you can view the whole lagoon system, neighboring islands and the reason why people fall in love with this place.
Sea Animal Experiences That Turned It All
The water surrounding Moorea is not only beautiful but it is alive in a very strange way which you will always be surprised by.
Rafting with Stingrays at the Sandbar
There is nothing like that to prepare you to your first encounter with stingrays. The boat is on crystal clear shallow water where the boat anchors and the next thing that comes is these graceful creatures that just fly around like birds in the air.
They are inquisitive, docile, not afraid in any way. One touched my leg and I almost jumped out of my skin but the guide laughed. “They’re saying hello,” he said. He makes you believe him after ten minutes.
Blacktip Sharks – Less Scary Than Expected
The blacktip sharks showed up during the same excursion. Small, sleek, absolutely harmless to humans – but still sharks. Swimming alongside them felt like crossing some invisible line between tourist and genuine ocean experience.
Beach Discoveries
Taahiamanu Beach became my go-to spot for actual swimming rather than just photography. White sand, calm water, and enough coral activity to keep you entertained for hours.
The marine life here is accessible even for mediocre swimmers like me. Green sea turtles graze on coral like underwater cows. Schools of sergeant major fish create these moving walls of yellow stripes. You don’t need fancy equipment – just mask, snorkel, and willingness to spend hours floating around gawking at fish.
Temae Beach offers a different experience – more expansive, better for long walks, perfect for watching weather systems roll across the lagoon.
The coral formations here create natural aquariums. Purple sea fans, brain coral, parrotfish that actually sound like they’re crunching when they eat. Every snorkel session revealed something new.
Food Adventures: Beyond Resort Dining
Discovering Poisson Cru – Tahiti’s National Dish
You can’t leave French Polynesia without trying poisson cru, and I found the real deal at a local spot that doesn’t show up in guidebooks. Raw fish marinated in lime juice, mixed with coconut milk and vegetables – sounds simple until you taste how the lime “cooks” the fish and those flavors just explode.
The version I had came with fresh green beans and breadfruit on the side. Completely different from what you’d get at resort restaurants. This was family-recipe territory, served on a wooden platter that probably had stories.
Beachside Dining Done Right
Some of my best meals happened with sand between my toes. This particular lunch spot had no name that I could find – just grilled mahi-mahi, fries that tasted like actual potatoes, and whatever sauce they’d mixed up that day. The kind of place where you point at what looks good and hope for the best.
What made it memorable wasn’t just the food – it was eating while watching boats drift past the reef, feeling trade winds dry the salt on your skin, having conversations with other travelers who’d stumbled onto the same hidden gem.
Island Perspectives: Mount Rotui Views
Mount Rotui changes personality depending on your vantage point. From the main road, it looks imposing, almost threatening. But climb higher or catch it from the water, and it becomes this protective presence watching over the island.
The view from Plateau de Bounty shows Mount Rotui in context – part of a volcanic amphitheater that created these dramatic bays. Standing there, you understand why ancient Polynesians considered these places sacred. The scale is just… humbling.
Boat Excursions: Seeing Moorea from the Water
The water brings about various secrets in each island. The boat tour took me on a tour of areas of coast that I would have never been able to explore otherwise: secret beaches, submerged coral reefs, and views on those iconic mountains that totally transform your perception of the geography of the island.
The boat captain was a local who had been doing boat tours around the area all of my inlets and reefs were covered with stories. That’s where grandfather fished, he would tell me, or tourists are not at all familiar with this place. Worth a tour price to have him commenting on the island life.
Practical Realities: The Things They Leave out
Weather Patterns
Moorea weather shifts fast. One of my hikes began in fierce sunshine and ended in tropical rain. Wear red packing rains even when the skies are blue – them mountains make their weather.
The trade winds are your friend. They keep temperatures comfortable and blow away mosquitoes. When the winds die, you feel it immediately.
Money Matters
French Polynesia isn’t cheap. Budget accordingly:
- Ferry to Moorea: ~$25 each way
- Car rental: $60-80/day
- Decent meal: $25-40 per person
- Snorkel gear rental: $15/day
- Boat tours: $80-150 depending on length
ATMs exist but don’t always work. Bring euros or US dollars for backup.
Island Logistics
The island basically has one main road. Traffic jams consist of maybe six cars. Rush hour means someone’s moving cattle across the road.
Most businesses close for lunch – like actually close, not just slow service. Plan accordingly.
Gas stations are few. Fill up when you see one.
Best Times to Visit
I went in shoulder season (May) and had perfect weather with fewer crowds. Peak season (July-August) means more people but also more tour options.
Rainy season (November-April) still has beautiful days, just with more dramatic weather. Sometimes that makes for better photos.
Why Moorea Gets Under Your Skin
After a week here, I understood why people sell everything and move to islands. It’s not just the obvious beauty – though those sunsets over the lagoon don’t hurt. It’s how the place recalibrates your entire sense of what matters.
Time moves differently when your biggest decision is which beach to visit. Conversations happen naturally when you’re not rushing between appointments. You notice things – bird calls, wave patterns, how afternoon light changes the color of mountains.
The Photography Reality
No camera captures Moorea accurately. The scale, the colors, the way everything shifts with changing light – photos are just reminders of what it actually felt like to be there.
I took hundreds of shots trying to get that “perfect” lagoon photo. Never succeeded. The real experience was putting the camera down and just swimming in water so clear you could see your shadow on sand twenty feet below.
Planning Your Own Moorea Adventure
Essential Bookings:
- Ferry reservations through Aremiti.
- Car rental (book ahead – limited inventory).
- Snorkel tours through local operators.
Don’t Miss:
- Belvedere Lookout for the classic views.
- Three Coconut hike for jungle immersion.
- Stingray/shark encounters in the lagoon.
- At least one meal of fresh poisson cru.
- Sunrise or sunset from any beach.
Skip:
- Overpriced resort excursions (book direct with local guides).
- Trying to see everything in one day.
- Worrying too much about itineraries..
Moorea rewards spontaneity. My best discoveries happened when I ditched plans and followed interesting roads or talked to locals about their favorite spots.
This island doesn’t just offer vacation – it offers perspective. Sometimes that’s exactly what you didn’t know you needed.